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Review

“There's no substitute for experience. The Trad Climber's Bible captures two lifetimes of experience through classic essays of personal adventure and to-the-point anecdotes per lessons learned. Not your average how-to book!”—Kevin Jorgeson, professional climber and veteran of the Dawn Wall Project, El Capitan, Yosemite, a.k.a. "The Hardest Climb Never Done"

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From the Back Cover

Traditional, or simply, trad climbing, is a do-it-yourself adventure requiring the climbing team to negotiate the climb and to carry, hand-place and remove most if not all components of the roped safety system. In The Trad Climber’s Bible, two of the most revered and respected trad climbers in the world, John Long and Peter Croft, offer hard-won knowledge to aspiring trad climbers in a narrative format that is as informative as it is entertaining. With photos by iconic climbing photographer Greg Epperson and AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Bob Gaines, this full color book will appeal to climbers of all stripes.

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Product details

Series: How To Climb Series

Paperback: 408 pages

Publisher: Falcon Guides; First edition (February 18, 2014)

Language: English

ISBN-10: 0762783729

ISBN-13: 978-0762783724

Product Dimensions:

7.5 x 1 x 9.2 inches

Shipping Weight: 2.2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)

Average Customer Review:

4.0 out of 5 stars

23 customer reviews

Amazon Best Sellers Rank:

#369,490 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

This is a real bible for trad climbing. Just before any further information, I just wanted to make it clear that the book is not an educational manual, or a how to step-by-step guidebook. In reality, it is more than that. It is a compilation of essays, stories, life-experiences, and many invaluable educational pieces of advice that can, in fact, expand our expertise. In fact, I noticed that many of these advices/tips are normally forgotten to be shared in manuals/guides. Most probably because in the present book these advices are shared through personal experiences, through stories that involved sacrifice and reward.That said, it seems to be difficult to find a dedicated trad climbing guide, specially when we compare to face climbing and mountaineering. Books in rock climbing generally glimpse the basics of trad climbing but, in general, they focus on face climbing.An interesting and very useful addition to this book is “Climbing Anchors”, by the same writer John Long. Also, in terms of training, but a bit more focused on alpine/mountaineering, is the beautiful and complete book “Training for the New Alpinism”, by Steve House. Lastly, it is never an error to recommend the classic “Freedom of the Hills”, by The Mountaineers. There we learn a bit of all domains that mountains have to offer. I have not read from cover-to-cover this last book, but I appreciate reading pieces of that at times.Now, while writing this review, I noticed that our skills are developed based on a collection of information and experiences through readings, conversations, documentaries, and definitely hands-on experiences together with more advanced partners that are willing to share their knowledge with us.I first read the book early in 2015, after purchasing it at a local outdoor shop. Then in 2016 I also purchased the kindle version and noticed that is a good option too since it is well-formatted and all fits into place. I will just start reading it again, and perhaps that is why I decided to write this beforehand.I could not recommend this book enough. It is an enjoyable reading, where each of those 50+ stories will inspire you to go outdoors every single time you finish reading them.I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.Take good care,Haical

I like the concept of a pseudo how-to book based on anecdotes with side bar elaborations on the lessons learned. That's how this book is setup. This approach is ideal for the topic, as well, i.e. "trad climbing", aka climbing big rocks without sport-bolted style protection, where the routes demand self reliance, experience, and good judgement. I say it is ideal because much of the trad deal involves having the right calibrated mindset. How much boldness is enough? When does excessive boldness become unsafe? How do you assess the risk factor of where you've found yourself?Here you have two guys, both decades-and-decades-seasoned, who have done this stuff non-stop (okay, Long screwed around with unicycles and poodle breeding off and on, granted) for a long time, who can also both think and write about it in an instructive and entertaining way. Yes, for those who have been reading climbing stories for a while, there's a good deal of recycled John Long material in here - in spades (heh heh). But even with that, and even if the John Long style is beginning to wear on you a little after so many years, it hasn't been used in this way before. So it has value and it is welcome. Even better is that Croft's writing is well show cased here and there's plenty of it. His ability with the pen has been under rated and under utilized in my opinion, so enjoy this treasure trove. Be on the lookout for Peter's knack for pointing readers to the soul behind a story.If you have little trad knowledge and experience, you're still going to want the more how-to kind of books about anchor building, gear placement, dynamics of falls, etc. There are plenty of those. You're also gonna want some instruction and mentoring probably. These guys had less opportunity for that in their day. The beauty of this book is you get to learn from their near misses, successes, and "failures". If you have a bunch of trad experience, get this book too. There are good nuggets and good healthy-perspective reinforcers in here.I rate it five stars. I almost deducted three stars because of that thing on John Long's head in the author photo, but oh well, it's him I guess. Get this book. There isn't another one like it and there won't be another like it.

I have climbed for 55 years. This wonderful book is full of history, stories, advice, wisdom and memories. Stuff that’s intuitive, stuff I know, stuff that I’ve forgotten but benefit from being reminded of, stuff that is new and helpful, stuff that’s just plain interesting. If you have ever plugged gear in a crack or aspire to, this book is worthy. And it’s written by masters of the trade, who helped define the the evolution of trad climbing. Through stories of climbs and climbing partners the risk and reward of trad climbing is here for your education and enjoyment. I’m so glad Long and Croft put it together.

It's not really a guide or even a how-to bible, nor does it claim to be, so I have no issues with that. The book is a collection of stories interspersed with break-out boxes for tips and full-page pictures. This makes reading this "book" a chore because the useful information is contained in the boxes, but its context is provided by the stories. And the pictures just to make it cool and seem like it was worth the money. This is really like a giant climbing magazine put into a book. I read the first chapter and cannot be ADD enough to read the rest so it sits on the coffee table for the pictures.

This is an excellent book though not at all what I expected. This is not a technical manual, it reads like a collection of essays about various climbs and offers some fascinating insights into the logical yet slightly twisted mind required to be a great trad climber. Its easy to pick up and read in small chunks and includes many interesting side bars on the logistical and mental aspects of trad climbing.If you are looking for a reference manual go get Freedom of the Hills and one of the many books on anchors.... then buy this book anyway. you wont regret it.

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